Next I installed the lengths of
insulation into the wall stud bays, making sure that I didn’t leave any gaps. I
also made sure to have the paper side face inwards, toward the inside of the
garage. I then stapled the paper faced tabs to the wall studs.
After insulating the wall stud bays I
then filled in the small crevasses with either strips of fiberglass insulation
or with foam insulation that comes in a can. The foam insulation works great for
very narrow spaces around doors and windows. For a quality insulation job it is
important to insulate all gaps in the walls, so don’t skip insulating these
crevasses.
Once I completed insulating the garage walls I then moved on to the ceiling.
First, however, I nailed up 1”x3” strapping to the roof joists. I ran them
perpendicular to the roof joists and placed them on 32” centers, and used two
nails per roof joist to secure the strapping.
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I then installed, or weaved the
insulation up into the roof joists bays, such that the insulation rested on the
strapping. I positioned the insulation so that the faced side faced inwards to
the garage. I also stapled the insulation to the adjacent roof joists.
Once I insulated the garage ceiling,
I then went back and installed additional pieces of strapping lumber in-between
the existing strapping pieces. In the end, the strapping was effectively on 16
inch centers.
The entire effort only took a day,
and this was for a 24’x24’ garage. So if you are contemplating finishing your
garage with drywall, spend the time and money and first insulate the garage
walls and ceilings. Your garage will be warmer during the winter months,
regardless if you heat it. Living in New Hampshire I typically observe the
garage to be about 30o warmer than the outside air temperature during
frigid cold nights. I observe this by noting the outside air temperature from my
car thermometer when I first get into the car, and then watching the temperature
drop as I leave the garage and drive to work.
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